A vintage that gets overlooked after the brilliance of the 2005, but that has a lot to offer in its structure and classicism. The fruit character here is dark, still knitted down, even moody, with plenty of aromatics and fresh acidities. The grip is evident, with tannins that are holding everything in place, not quite ready to let go, with earth and liquorice coming through as it opens in the glass.

Drink 2020-2036, 93/100, Jane Anson, Decanter.com (July 2020)